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'DO NOT GO TO THE BEACH': Weather service now warns Bay Area waves could top 60 feet



Large waves battered parts of Northern California’s coastline during the storm period described in the supplied report, flooding streets, scattering debris, and prompting urgent warnings for people to stay away from exposed beaches.

The report cited National Weather Service forecasts calling for widespread breaking waves of 25 to 35 feet, with larger sets at locations such as Mavericks. An updated warning indicated that waves at some locations could exceed 60 feet.

These coastal forecasts were separate from a measurement recorded offshore near Point Reyes, where a buoy registered a wave height of 31.2 feet on Saturday morning. National Weather Service meteorologist Rachel Kennedy said it was the highest reading at that location since 2015.

Waves Flood Streets and Force Road Closures

Footage from Pacifica and Half Moon Bay showed seawater surging onto streets as heavy surf struck the shoreline. Witnesses described people being knocked over or scrambling away when especially large waves arrived.

Farther south, Monterey County crews closed several roads around Carmel Point after waves deposited rocks and sand on the pavement. Affected locations included multiple intersections along Scenic Road and Carmelo Street at 17th Avenue.

Capitola officials also urged visitors to avoid the wharf during part of the event.

Distant Storms Drive Powerful Surf

Meteorologists linked the conditions to strong storm activity over the Pacific, including a system near the Gulf of Alaska with hurricane-force winds.

Those winds generated swells that traveled toward California. Forecast intervals of roughly 18 to 19 seconds between wave crests indicated long-period swell capable of producing powerful breaking waves along exposed sections of coast.

Kennedy cautioned that a decline in the initial swell would not necessarily end the danger. Additional northwesterly swells were expected as storm activity continued across the Pacific.

The report also described the disappearance of a 24-year-old woman who had been swept away at Panther Beach in Santa Cruz the previous weekend, underscoring the potential consequences of hazardous coastal conditions.

Rain and Wind Add to Weather Concerns

Alongside the surf, forecasters expected a cold front to move south through the region, bringing approximately half an inch to an inch of rain to much of the Bay Area.

Wind gusts were forecast to reach 20 to 30 mph, with coastal gusts potentially reaching 45 mph. Another weather system was expected later in the week.

San Mateo County also announced additional temporary shelter capacity under its Inclement Weather Program. People referred through the county’s Coordinated Entry System would have access to cots, meals, showers, restrooms, and laundry facilities. Guests could remain through consecutive days of qualifying severe weather.

Source: A news report citing the National Weather Service and local officials. This account describes the reported event and is not a live weather advisory.